Early Spokane

Early Spokane. . Prior to 1871, the area where you are now standing was populated by the Upper Band of the Spokane Tribe of Indians. It was one of their most important salmon fisheries. Following the passage by Congress of the 1864 Northern Pacific Railroad Land Grant, and with preliminary indications pointing to the Northern Pacific's route passing through the area near the Spokane Falls, a few individuals began to settle at what would become the town site of Spokane Falls (“Falls” was dropped from the name in 1891)., Seth Scranton, James Downing, and Marcia Downing Were the First White Settlers. In 1871, James J. Downing and Seth B. Scranton staked and claimed 160 acres, part of which they platted for the town site of Spokane Falls. They also built living quarters and a small sawmill. Scranton's friend G. W. Bassett was with him when he staked his claim at the falls in the spring of 1871. On February 12, 1912, a letter to the editor by G. W. Bassett appeared in the Spokesman-Review responding to questions regarding the exact date of the first white settlement at Spokane Falls. His response not only answered that question but also provided valuable additional information about Scranton and Downing:, ...I know of no one living who can answer that question better than myself, as I was with Seth Scranton when he stuck his first stake at the Falls, and that was in 1871. I had known Scranton and Downing for several years in Montana. Downing and myself left Helena, Montana, the fall of 1870 and went to Walla Walla to buy cattle, but prices were too high and Downing returned to Montana in mid-winter by snowshoeing it part of the way. I remained at Walla Walla until the following April and started for Montana with a bunch of horses, and when I reached Moran Prairie I found Downing and Scranton had picked claims on Moran Prairie. I remained with them 10 days waiting for the snow to melt in the mountains; then it was Scranton and I visited the falls and Scranton located. I thought at the time the man was going “batty.” I went on to Montana and when I returned in October to Walla Walla I called at the falls and found Downing and Scranton had nearly completed a sawmill., On early censuses, Scranton and Downing were generally listed as “farmer” or “raising cattle,” but in the 1880 census, Scranton gave his occupation as blacksmith. He later became the first postmaster of Spokane Falls. One account states they came to the Spokane area because they were aware of the railroad's likely route, and they intended to be ready to sell beef to what was bound to be an influx of new settlers. In August 1899, years after leaving the area, Marcia Downing visited Spokane. In an interview with a reporter from the Spokesman-Review, she described her husband's plans and efforts to lay out a town site by the falls. The following excerpt from the reporter's article, printed on August 21, 1899, quoted Marcia Downing:, Mr. Downing, you know, drove the first stake in the present town site of Spokane. He hired surveyors and laid off the largest part of our quarter section in town lots and streets and avenues. But when he'd finished, he got discouraged. “What's the use, mother?” I remember his saying: “Who's ever going to want all this water power of the falls? I don't believe the railroad's coming through here, and as long as it doesn't, why, there's no good of all our town lots and our streets and avenues.” I didn't quite agree with him… But we sold all our 160 acres of land and moved out to Moran prairie, where we took up a ranch… We stayed two years on Moran prairie, then sold our ranch…, The earliest government surveys, recorded with the Bureau of Land Management for the township and range in which Spokane is located, are dated 1874. Though not a government survey, Downing's survey would have established and defined the boundaries of their land claim (squatter's rights) as required for a preemption claim. Although unable to develop a town due to a lack of settlers, Downing and Scranton did plat the first town site in Spokane Falls and establish the town's first commercial enterprise, a sawmill., James Glover, the “Father of Spokane,” purchased Spokane Falls from Scranton and Downing. Glover reported that, at the time of his arrival on May 11, 1873, the entire town site consisted of six board or log cabins and a small shed that housed the “muley” sawmill. There was a double log cabin a little southwest of the mill, near the south end of the present Post Street Bridge. This structure had been built and occupied by the Downings and Scranton, but at the time of Glover's arrival it was occupied by Richard Benjamin and his family. About 150 yards from it was a little box house, 16 feet square, occupied by L. M. Swift and his wife, which had been built with lumber from the sawmill. On the north side of Front Avenue (Spokane Falls Boulevard), between Howard and Mill (now Wall) streets, was the body of a log house. It had not been roofed and had only a dirt floor. In the same block, at about the corner of Howard and Front, there was the body of another little house , also without a roof. Across Howard Street, and on the other side of Front, about where the Coeur d'Alene Hotel was later built, was another log cabin. This was the extent of the town site Glover was about to purchase. , According to Glover's reminiscences, “before nightfall of May 12, 1873,” he had purchased Downing's and Scranton's land and holdings for $2,000. Aware of the Northern Pacific's preliminary survey prior to Scranton's and Downing's arrival, which passed near the Spokane Falls, Glover was fairly well assured of the railroad's intended route. However, he rightfully had concerns about when the Northern Pacific Railroad would be completed. The same year Glover bought the town site, construction of the railroad, which had only commenced in 1870, came to a halt due to financial failure. That impact was noticeable, and Glover did, in fact, experience his share of anxiety for a few years over whether or not people would come and put down roots in Spokane Falls. Nevertheless, having purchased the town site, Glover tenaciously clung to his vision and made enough right moves to promote the town., The initial settlement was around the intersection of Howard Street and Front Avenue (which later became Trent and now Spokane Falls Boulevard), but as the town developed, Riverside Avenue became the main business district. Both residences and businesses were located within blocks of the axis of Howard and Riverside. In 1878, Spokane's first formal hotel, the California House, was built at the northeast corner of Howard and Front. The hotel was destroyed in Spokane's Great Fire of 1889. A new public safety building was later built on its site. Today, the Looff Carousel occupies a small portion of that site. The first river crossing at the town of Spokane Falls was north from Howard Street, and consisted of three separate spans. As the town expanded, the area north, east, and west of this historic intersection would become the passenger rail hub for four major railroads to serve the area: the Union Pacific; the Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railway; the Great Northern Railway; and the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad (often referred to as the Milwaukee Road). Also at this site were two passenger depots: the Great Northern Depot, shared by the Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railway; and the Union Station, shared by the Milwaukee Road. Today, the only remnant of this great railway hub is the clock tower of the Great Northern Railroad Depot in Riverfront Park. Howard Street, behind where you are standing, was the first street in Spokane Falls to be paved, at a cost of $13,148. An article in the January 2, 1898, Spokane Review stated: “Spokane's first paved street has been completed, and tomorrow will be turned over to the city… The pavement, which is of vitrified brick, on a six-inch concrete foundation, extends from the north line of Riverside avenue to a point 108 1/2 feet north of the north line of Front avenue.” Riverside was Spokane's second street to be paved. This time the surfacing material was asphalt and the cost was $49,865. , Narrative and photos donated in 2014 by Tony and Suzanne Bamonte, Tornado Creek Publications , Sign designed and donated by Rick and Jeannette Nelson, Ornamental Gate and Fence.