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Schießhaus in Bayreuth, Bavaria, Germany — Central Europe
 

Eine widerliche Ausdünstung von Schnaps und Spiritus: Riga

A repulsive stench of schnapps and spirits: Riga

Wo Wagner wohnte / Walk of Wagner

 
 
Eine widerliche Ausdünstung von Schnaps und Spiritus: Riga Marker image. Click for full size.
Photographed by James Hulse, May 29, 2025
1. Eine widerliche Ausdünstung von Schnaps und Spiritus: Riga Marker
Inscription.  German:
Wagner wohnte, als er 1837 als Kapellmeister in die 70.000 Seelen zählende bedeutende Hafen- und Handelsstadt Riga zog, zunächst in der Schmiedegasse, der heutigen Kaleju iela, in ungemütlichen Räumen bei einem Weinhändler namens Herr Zau. Das Haus befand sich einst gegenüber der Johanneskirchengasse und war düster und unfreundlich, „nach dem Hofe zu gelegen, dem Meister durch die darin herrschende widerliche Ausdünstung von Schnaps und Spiritus noch lange in unvergessener Erinnerung”, wie Wagners Biograf Glasenapp schrieb. Der Ort hatte jedoch den Vorteil, dass er sich in der Nähe des Theaters befand. Wagner zog 1838 mit Minna Wagner und deren zugezogener Schwester Amalie Planer in die Petersburger Vorstadt: mit sechs Zimmern im zweiten Stock, aber ohne Speisezimmer, doch mit zwei russischen Öfen. Das Haus in der Freiheitsstraße, der heutigen Brivibas iela 33, wurde 1912 zugunsten eines Bankgebäudes abgerissen. In diesen beiden Wohnungen komponierte Wagner die ersten beiden Akte seiner dritten Oper Rienzi und hier konnte man laut Glasenapp Wagner öfters „im Schlafrock, die Pfeife im Munde, einen türkischen Fez auf dem Kopfe, aus dem offenen Fenster“ erblicken.

Bildunterschriften
(Foto #1) Riga, Schmiedestraße: a guest of the wine merchant Zau.
(Foto #2) Eine Wohnung mit sechs Zimmern: in der „frei gelegenen Petersburger Vorstadt".
(Foto #3) Mit Klavier und Sofa: Wagners Arbeitszimmer in der Freiheitsstraße.


English Translation:
When Wagner moved to the important port and trading city of Riga, then with a population of 70,000, in 1837 to take up the position of Kapellmeister, he initially lived in Schmiedegasse, now Kaleju iela, in uncomfortable rooms with a wine merchant named Herr Zau. The house once stood opposite Johanneskirchengasse and was dark and unfriendly, “facing the courtyard, which the maestro would long remember for its repulsive stench of schnapps and spirits,” as Wagner’s biographer Glasenapp wrote. However, the place had the advantage of being close to the theater. In 1838, Wagner moved with Minna Wagner and her newly arrived sister Amalie Planer to the Petersburger suburb: an apartment with six rooms on the second floor, but no dining room — although it did have two Russian stoves. The house on Freiheitsstraße, today’s Brivibas iela 33, was demolished in 1912 to make way for a bank building. In these two residences, Wagner composed the first two acts of his third opera Rienzi, and, according to Glasenapp, one could often see Wagner “in a dressing gown, a pipe in his mouth, a Turkish fez on his head, leaning out of the open window.”

Captions
(Photo #1) Riga, Schmiedestraße: a guest of the wine merchant Zau.
(Photo #2) An apartment with six rooms: in the “openly situated Petersburger suburb.”.
(Photo #3) With piano and sofa: Wagner’s study on Freiheitsstraße.

 
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Da steckt Wagner drin!.
 
Topics. This historical marker is listed in this topic list: Notable Buildings. A significant historical year for this entry is 1837.
 
Location. 49° 56.566′ N, 11° 34.812′ E. Marker is in Bayreuth, Bayern (Bavaria). It is in Schießhaus. It is on Richard-Wagner-Straße close to Dilchertstraße, on the right when traveling west. The view of the marker along the corner of the building. Touch for map. Marker is at or near this postal address: Richard-Wagner-Straße 19, Bayreuth BY 95444, Germany. Touch for directions.

Regionally, it is in Europe, the European Union, Atlantic Europe, Central Europe, the Schengen Area, Western Europe, and the Western World. Historically, it finds itself in what was once the Roman Empire and specifically also the Holy Roman Empire.

Other nearby markers. At least 8 other markers are within walking distance of this marker: Im Schoße der herrlichsten Natur: Pravonín und Prag (about 90 meters away, measured in a direct line); Vom Neumarkt zum Palais: Dresden / From Neumarkt to the Palace: Dresden (about 90 meters away); Zwei Intendanten / Two Directors: Lüttichau (mit Frau) und Bronsart von Schellendorf
Eine widerliche Ausdünstung von Schnaps und Spiritus: Riga Marker image. Click for full size.
Photographed by James Hulse, May 29, 2025
2. Eine widerliche Ausdünstung von Schnaps und Spiritus: Riga Marker
(about 120 meters away); Jean Paul und die Sonne / Jean Paul and the Hotel Sonne (about 120 meters away); Sternplatz (about 180 meters away); In den Escherhäusern: Zürich II / In the Escherhäuser: Zürich II (about 180 meters away); Neues Schloss Bayreuth / New Palace Bayreuth (about 210 meters away); Georg Paul Finck Haus (about 240 meters away). Touch for a list and map of all markers in Bayreuth.
 
Other markers no longer nearby. Mehrere Komponisten: Meyerbeer Bruckner und die Strauß-Kapelle (was here, next to this marker but has been permanently removed); Drei Schweizer/Three Swiss: Sulzer, Müller, Ott-Usteri (was about 180 meters away but has been permanently removed).
 
Also see . . .  My tour: Bayreuth yesterday and today. Future History
Discover historic Bayreuth from the turn of the 19th to the 20th century, and see how the sights present themselves today. Our informative city tour takes you from the Tourist Information Center past the Margravial Opera House, to Haus Wahnfried, the New Palace, the Baroque Friedrichstrasse, the City Church, and the Market Square with its many facets. Finally, you return to the
The view of the marker along the street (right side) image. Click for full size.
Photographed by James Hulse, May 29, 2025
3. The view of the marker along the street (right side)
starting point via the Old Palace.
(Submitted on June 15, 2025, by James Hulse of Medina, Texas.) 
 
 
Credits. This page was last revised on June 15, 2025. It was originally submitted on June 15, 2025, by James Hulse of Medina, Texas. This page has been viewed 73 times since then and 5 times this year. Photos:   1, 2, 3. submitted on June 15, 2025, by James Hulse of Medina, Texas.
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Aug. 1, 2026